Frequently Asked Questions

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New guides are added regularly. Older guides are reviewed and updated when the information changes.

Email [email protected]. Tell us which guide you mean and what looks wrong, or describe the topic you would like covered. These guides do not replace a qualified RV technician, electrician or inspector, so check your own manual and ask a professional for anything involving gas, high-voltage electrics, brakes or structure.

A travel trailer is towed behind a truck or SUV, so you can unhook it and use the vehicle separately. A motorhome has its own engine and driving cab built in. Towables usually cost less, while motorhomes are quicker to set up on arrival.

Look up the tow rating and payload in your vehicle's owner manual and on the door-jamb label. Then compare them with the trailer's loaded weight and tongue weight, not just its empty weight. Staying well under the limits makes towing safer and less stressful.

These are two common types of campground shore power, and each has its own plug shape. A 50-amp connection can supply more power at once than a 30-amp one, which matters if you run several large appliances. Check what your rig is built for and use the correct cord or adapter.

Campground water pressure can be higher than an RV's plumbing is designed to handle. A regulator on the spigot helps protect lines and fittings from damage. It is a small, low-cost part that most RVers connect before the hose.

Many owners look over the roof sealant and seams a couple of times a year and after long trips or storms. Cracks, gaps or soft spots are a sign to act early, because slow leaks can damage walls and floors. Your manual and sealant maker will say which products suit your roof material.

Many people do, but it takes planning beyond the rig itself. Mail, internet, insurance, registration and where you can stay long term all need answers. Rules differ by state and country, so confirm the details with the official agencies before you commit.